With just a little effort you can
make a more detailed model
 Here's a view of the virgin door line. While it appears to be straight forward, this would be no easy scribing job. The thickness of the plastic varies greatly from top to bottom. |
When a modeler feels inspired, very little can stand in his way--at least in the beginning. When progress hits the inevitable snag, that pristine vision begins to fade and it soon gathers dust in the "to do" pile. The ignorance of simple tools or techniques are, at times, the only missing piece to finishing that puzzling project. If a modeler wants to go beyond kit assembly to enhance a kits realism, few options provide more detail than actual operating features but few models offer opening doors or trunks. If you want opening doors, you'll have to make them yourself. I've seen many techniques to accomplish this but until I gave each of them a try I didn't realize how much easier one method was. If you are not completely satisfied with the way you are currently doing it, check this out. I used to be a proponent of the X-Atco blade method- running the back of a #11 blade in the groove demarking the door or trunk. After several passes in one area you would continue around the perimeter, repeatedly gouging away layers of styrene until the part could be removed. Too often I was gouging more than just the recesses. I've jumped the groove occasionally and left a nicely carved line across a rear deck lid or belt line leaving yet another inspiration-dampening touch-up to do. I've also slipped and stuck myself. Now that can really spoil the moment. I know, I know, you must do it lightly first to insure a nice, even, clean line. Progress to firm pressure after you've established a groove. Yes, that DOES work the best. Still, the thought of pushing a very sharp object through the plastic and into my (fill in any sensitive part of the anatomy here) was giving me gray hairs. I did find that the larger, thicker, and less flexible X-Acto blades, or even commercial panel scribers did a better job of setting the initial groove-saving the #11 blades for finishing work. After each adventure I thought that there had to be a better way. I had read about another method many years ago on RMS (Usenet Rec.Models.Scale group bulletin boards) but hadn't tried it yet. It involved the use of friction to melt a clean cut through the plastic with almost no loss of material between the parts. Wow, sounded great! Recently I got a chance to try it out on a "distressed" AMT '66 T-bird kit (it was badly warped). The technique worked GREAT! Here's a primer. Will you need tools? Yes, one. Thread! Polyester based thread seems to be stronger, thus providing more cutting potential. You will also need a way of supporting your model while cutting. The gist of this technique is pulling a length of thread back and forth along the door/trunk line. The friction and pressure melts the styrene and the cutting process begins. The best part is that the gap between parts, using this method, is only as wide as the width of the thread. That's very hard to beat. This technique spelles the end of drilling half a billion tiny holes then playing connect the dots with an X-atco. No more carving out vital organs along with that trunk lid. No requirement to buy two kits in order to make one with opening doors and trunk. I've found that this technique can be enhanced with the addition of some "toolage". I tried it first with a Flex-I-File, wrapping the tread around the pins on each end. It looked like a coping saw, worked nicely, and was easy to maneuver in tight spots. Developing your own individual method is part of the process. Your biggest nemisis during cutting will be loose thread. Tension (and attention) are the keys to a good cut. Constant supervision must be maintained to insure the thread is kept taut while it is being stretched out throughout the cutting process. I use my index finger to keep pressure to the thread while sawing. Obviously you want to apply the pressure in the same direction as your cut to avoid getting off line. Notice that I chose a convertible for this example. Some practice may be needed before trying to disect those A- and B-pillars on hardtops and sedans. Combining techniques can enhance the process. Scribing the recesss before sawing helps align the thread in the groove. Also, a pin-vise drill will be needed to create a starter hole (usually in an upper corner) for non-convertible doors as well as trunks. Darkening the recesses with Detailer, a pencil, or a colored fineline marker can help you see the recess better and keep tabs on your cutting progress. This technique can be used for any number of other irregular cutting jobs like cleanly removing the front clip. I've also used it on aircraft kits.
I am very impressed with this method and have big plans for other kits. Sometimes the answer to your "modeler's block" is just around the corner...in the wife's sewing box.
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 The cut is proceeding nicely. Keep downward pressure on the thread in the direction of the cut. The thread wants to follow the groove so it shouldn't be difficult to keep the cut on course. |
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 You can see beads of melted plastic still in the cut line... |
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 ...gently apply pressure to both sides of the cut to open it. This usually breaks the beads loose. |
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 Monitoring the back side of the cut gives you a good indication of how you are doing. Is the cut straight? |
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